Carpe Diem

Sanibona all!

It has been a while since I have last blogged. I’m a bit bored now, so I guess this is a better time than ever to recount my experiences over the past week. After my first unfruitful week of Independent Study Time, I was going to start off the week by staying in and not even trying to do anything. I was so let down by all of the major circumstances that were standing in my way. Fortunately (or unfortunately) I got into an argument with the lady who owns the hostel (she is so unreasonable!) over laundry. I decided to trek to the SIT house across town and do my laundry there. On the way I stopped at the library downtown. I found out that I could not get a library card, but I could go in and read the books there if I wanted. I made a plan to return pencil and paper in hand, to get some research done. (I wouldn’t dare take my laptop into the library…Durban city center is known for clever thieves).

Anyway, I returned to the library, but got absolutely nowhere. Books were not shelved in the proper place, there was no system to look up books (besides what the librarians used), and when I went to ask a librarian for help…she couldn’t help me. I gave that up quick.

I did manage to gather two interviews this week. I was supposed to get 5-6 interviews for my project…but because of the circumstances I don’t think that will really happen. I am shooting for 3 now, so hopefully I will surpass my goal

My mom really enjoyed the monkey story, so I think have another one to top that. I was riding in a minibus taxi the other day back to my hostel with a few of my friends. In comparison to other minibuses, this one was fairly nice…like an upgraded 1980’s astrovan. Now the minibuses go through a lot of wear and tear…driving up and down the mean streets of Durban (and other south African cities)…people jumping in and out (and these people aren’t the smallest)…I am sure those vans have a very high turn around. Anyway, I was riding back to my lodging, and we were making our way up the hill. We stopped to pick a lady up, and the attendant who opens the door/collects the money, opened the door. The door got stuck for a second, and he yanked the door to close it. Before we all knew it the door was laying in the street. We were in the middle of one of the busiest roads, and the door was in the street! The taxi was filled with laughs as the attendant desperately tried to reattach the door to no avail…my friends and I resorted to continuing the journey to our hostel on foot, all the way up the hill. Fun Times

Today, I also had an interesting experience. I was walking to the taxis in city center. I made a turn onto a busy sidewalk. Lo and behold, there was some large thing on the sidewalk blocking the way. There was a rope around this thing, but I couldn’t understand what it was. As I walked by it, I got a better view. Although it was completely covered, this thing turned out to be a corpse. I’m not exactly sure what happened, but there was a body on the sidewalk, and no one seemed to care. That’s an image I definitely will not forget.

I guess I should have started with the latter experience first…I feel like I’m ending on a really somber note. I guess that just makes it all the more real though. I am still in Africa.

Anyway, until next time!

Hambani Kahle!

- Ezelle

The Fantastic Journey Continues

Sanibonani!

I wanted to post an addendum to my previous post about being a black foreigner in South Africa. I don't think I included that I was called an umlungu by the school children (playfully of course). The direct translation of this word is "white man." Now granted, I am not a white man, but as it was explained to us in Zulu lessons, umlungu has been used to refer to foreigners." I thought this was a pretty interesting tidbit to include.

I also wanted to recount a conversation that I had with my homestay mama. She asked me "Where do you think you came from?" I didn't know what she meant, so I said..."I'm from America." "No!" she said while laughing, "how did black people get to america?" I then told her about the Middle Passage-that many black people came to America as African Slaves. She just nodded, but that wasn't the answer that she was looking for. At this point, I was a gently frustrated. In a polite manner, I asked "Where did we come from then?"

She explained to me the story of Shaka Zulu. Now, I've head this name before, but only in comedic sketches of sorts. I had no idea that he was an actual person! King Shaka was an intense warrior, and from what I understand wanted to take over Africa. Obviously his legend has become a tall tale, but one fact remains: he was a ferocious warrior. She told me that King Shaka wanted to gain the knowledge of the abalungu (the white men), so he sent black people all over the world to collect knowledge, and to bring that back to Africa. "You are," she told me, " one of the lost children of Shaka, coming back with the knowledge of the White Man"

Interesting story, I thought. That was a narrative that I had never heard before, explaining why there exists a black international cultural diaspora. I also did further reading, which said that King Shaka never married and never had kids (a strange thing for a Zulu man). Some scholars believe that because of this Shaka might have been homosexual.

Coming back to the present: It is almost a week into our allocated month for an Independent Study. I have yet to meet with my advisor due to staff protests at her University. Moreover, my first interview was postponed. I have been trying to get some reading and source-logging done, but it's just not happening. I'm hoping that next week will be VERY different. If not, I don't know what I will do for my project. Its been raining almost every day here, as the season changes to autumn. I mustered up the resolve to start working on my project today, and as soon as I began, the power went out.... I guess that's a sign for something.

Anyway, next week WILL be different. It has to be. But as I told one of my friends, difficulties make research more interesting. You just have to roll with the punches.

I also wanted to let my readers know that I am not intentionally trying to sound pessimistic in my posts. Regardless of the difficulties and challenges, I am enjoying myself in South Africa. The challenges are just more interesting to report.

- Hambani Kahle!

- Ezelle

The Joy of Research (with slight sarcasm)

Well, the month of endless research has begun for me. The Independent Study Project (ISP) is the staple of any SIT program, allowing students to follow a topic of interest and produce a lengthy paper about that topic. As I have said so many times before on this blog, I am researching physician-activists in the anti-apartheid movement. From previous posts, you may have been able to discern my enthusiasm for such a topic…yet instead of me embarking upon the world with a magnifying glass, I am siting in the SIT house writing this blog.

There is nothing wrong with that, of course, except….this is not what I envisioned my South African Research journey to be. It is getting off to a very rocky start, and things are not within my control. I think me blogged about the protests going on at the University of KwaZulu Natal campuses. If not…well...here it is: Students are protesting because of an issue with financial aid. I am not exactly sure why because I have gotten so many conflicting explanations. The protests, however, have turned disruptive, even violent. Police are now out in full force to make sure order is maintained….even if that means firing rubber bullets.

There are two ways in which to look at this situation (I am trying to maintain level-headedness by looking at all sides of the situation…but that is a task of the utmost difficulty) I could (and do) see this as a MAJOR inconvenience. These protests are preventing me from meeting with my ISP advisor to set up a research plans. Furthermore, I just found out that my interview at the medical school (scheduled for tomorrow) will have to be postponed due to disruptive behaviour and threats. At the moment, I am currently stalled, with no place to go. Moreover, this interview is critical because it will, undoubtedly, lead to more interviewees.

On the other hand, I could sympathize with my collegiate peers. Although I am not entirely sure of the motivation behind these protests, I am sure it is not done with frivolous intent. There is a back story which is motivating the activism of these students, which I respect and admire. I would be hard-pressed to find such readiness to put the active in activist in American university students.

And thus is the grand irony of my research project thus far. As I am trying to research the activism of the past, it is blocked by the activism of the present generation (it’s quite interesting how it is working out this way). I am sure that many though that the demonstrations of anti-apartheid liberators were also an “inconvenience.” Although these strikes are a barrier to my research, I must look at them in contest. I must also acknowledge that barriers happen all of the time in research. If this is something that I will be doing for the rest of my life, I should probably get used to it.

Anyway, I guess I should be using my time more appropriately and find something do relating to my project.

I shall keep you updated.

- Ezelle

A Goodbye to Cato

I know I haven’t written in my blog for a very long time…and for that I apologize. I see now why I have so many hits! My mom has been blowing me up. I guess that’s a good thing. Over the past few weeks I have been completely invested in being a college student, both academically and socially. Work hard…play hard. Anyway, I had a few notable experiences yesterday, which I figure I should share.

My research advisor informed me that I should travel to the University of KwaZulu-Natal Nelson R. Mandela Medical School to see an exhibit about Steve Biko. I had no idea what to expect. Would it be a big exhibit or a small one? Would there be speaker? Would there be many people, maybe potential interviewees? Anyway. My first concern was how do I get there? I could have used the SIT provided transportation, but I figured I should begin using South African Transportation (During my Independent Study, I will have to use South African Transportation anyway). Mini-bus taxis are very popular...the largest informal economy in South Africa. I’ve spoken about Minibuses or “taxis” before….very small for my large stature, crazy driving, and people jumping in and out. I also asked my sisi about what taxis to take, where to get off, and how to get to the med school from the stop. My sister kept saying something about “row boats” and going past the “row boats.” Me and my complacent attitude, I didn’t ask if there were “row boats” around….I guess I would walk and see a row boat, and then make a turn or keep straight…It was only when she drew a map for me and pointed to an intersection and said “row boat” did I but two and two together---“OH ROBOT! “I said. (South African’s call traffic lights robots.

Well, after I got all of that sorted (another term used affectionately by South Africans). I caught a taxi in front of my Cato Manor house and rode to the “Chesterville Rank.” Now... I have never been to the “Chesterville Rank” before…but getting lost is good right? I made it there with little problems (other than transferring to a fuller taxi because the one I was on didn’t have any other passengers). There I had to ask around in broken Zulu for the cab going to King Edward Hospital. That was okay, other than I was stuck in the packed backseat with 3 other people... I could not raise my head completely, the ceiling was too low, and I had to sit sideways because my legs were too big. I MADE IT THOUGH! I followed the directions that my sister gave me, complete with the “row boats.” I made it to the Steve Biko exhibit in good time!

There I was the only visitor, and I found out that yesterday was the last day it was on display…which was a good thing for me. I went just in time. There I met the medical school historian/archivist/curator who offered the university archives to me as a student researcher. I also met the curator of the Steve Biko foundation who, as it turns out, has vested Charlotte. We had a few laughs over that, and my taxi experiences. She said my Zulu was great (I had no accent!), which was pretty awesome. All in all, I got some good information, and made very good contacts for my project.

Now some of you may be wondering, who is this Steve Biko person? If you are, you should watch the movie Cry Freedom. Steve Biko was a former Medical Student, one of the foremost activists in the anti-apartheid movement. He championed “black consciousness” which allowed those who were not white to embrace their heritage and fight the systems of oppression. He is quite a fascinating figure, and it seems that he is becoming a key figure in my research project. Also, my research advisor knew Steve quite well, which is also really awesome.

I made it back safely to my homestay in Cato Manor Township…and then I realized that it was my last night there. I already extended my stay for another month, unlike most of the students on the program (it was cheaper, and the food was AWESOME). AS much as I was uncomfortable, and had such interesting experiences, I knew I would miss the place. It was quiet and serene, yet simultaneously you could hear singing in the church down the street, or boisterous music playing in the house next door. I could go outside and look at the green glowing Pavilion Mega Mall, while looking out on the two valley townships from which most of its income comes. I would miss the hot nights there… the calmness of my homestay family, and sometimes even the water outages. All in all, it was a good time, and I know that those are experiences I will cherish for a lifetime.

Well, I will stop here. I noticed that I tend to write A LOT of information on these blogs. If something else interesting happens, I will be sure to include it.

PS- We saw a whole family of monkeys the other day at our SIT house! It was awesome!

- Ezelle

A Note from South Africa

A Note from South Africa!

As the Zulu say here in the province of KwaZulu-Natal, Sawubona! I am currently studying abroad with the School for International Training (SIT), studying community health and social policy. The primary aim of the program is to introduce students to Zulu culture and society while learning about health, healing practices and how they are informed by culture and policy. One of the key components of the program is the Independent Study Project, which allows students to choose a topic of interest, research and study in that area, and ultimately write an article length paper which critically analyzes their findings. As I am interested in the intersection of health and human rights, and more specifically the role of health care professionals in the fight for medical equality, I will be researching the role of South African physicians and other health care professionals in the anti-apartheid movement.

I am very excited and enthusiastic to begin my research project! The opportunity to conduct research in a foreign country and to produce knowledge to contribute to academic discourses is not one commonly afforded to undergraduate students. Furthermore, the parallels in development between the United States and South Africa are striking especially with regards to movements for equality. The civil rights movement, and later the anti-apartheid movement had similar goals, but it would be interesting to see exactly how the latter was influenced by the former. I am lucky to have a project advisor who not only studies movements for civil and human rights, but who was also a critical figure in the anti-apartheid movement. As I discovered upon our first meeting, her husband was imprisoned on Robben Island with Nelson Mandela! What is more interesting is that se and Winnie Mandela would often trade places, each wife speaking to the other’s imprisoned husband. Her insight and wisdom, along with her personal connections to other activists will, undoubtedly, be a major aid to my project.

As I start my journey of understanding my topic, I am beginning to understand the art of interdisciplinary research. This program is based upon the principles of anthropology and public health. In that light, all of the information that I have been learning thus far has dealt with research from multiple disciplines. While it is important to be grounded in a particular discipline, one cannot discount the obvious benefits of expanding the scope of knowledge: it allows not only more information to be critically analyzed, but also offers multiple paradigms in which information can be observed and manipulated. The world of interdisciplinary research dissolves the boundaries that traditional academic disciplines can construct.

Here, at this program we are encouraged to conduct research that is interdisciplinary. My research pulls from medical history, as well as the principles of public health and medical anthropology. Juggling these multiple disciplines requires much restraint and responsibility. It is so easy to get lost in the various aspects of each discipline of interest. Therefore, one discipline must remain dominant to all others. In the case of my research here in South Africa, I am focusing more on the principles of medical anthropology, while drawing from all other disciplines related to my research project.

The research journey is not going to be an easy one. Not only do I have to conduct a broad social analysis of my subject area, I must compose a list of physicians and activists to interview for primary data. I must also gather an amalgamation of secondary sources which will be used in triangulating the claims that I will be making in my final paper. This will be particularly hard, because I am in a new social and cultural context all together. Finding approximately 10 to 15 people to interview for at least an hour each is a feat I have never attempted to achieve before, but I am sure that my project advisor will have many suggestions.

My time here in South Africa holds so much potential for growth and learning. ‘The skills that I gain from conducting interdisciplinary research in a foreign country will indubitably are a key component to my growth as an undergraduate researcher. I am excited to see where my research will take me, and what conclusions I will make I am even more excited about the knowledge that I will take back to the United States. I am sure that my research here, in South Africa, will ultimately give me a new perspective in which I can view my current Merle Kling Undergraduate Honors Project. In the future, I hope to combine my findings from both projects to form the basis of a senior honors thesis in anthropology.

That is all about my research for now. As the Zulu say here, Hambani Kahle! Good Bye!

Ezelle Sanford III