And the adventures continue

2/20/11

Sanibonani

It is so hard for me to believe that I am approaching my second month here in South Africa. The first week went by so slowly, but after that, time waited for no one. I guess it’s because I am actually taking classes now, and looking forward to deadlines accelerates time a bit. This past week has been SOO eventful, so this will be another long entry (brace yourselves). I will try to make it as entertaining/captivating as I can (I think all of these are important experiences that I sho

uld note...moreso for myself, than for a general audience). I will try to also include some pictures within the text of my blog to make it more cohesive. Don’t forget, I have pictures from my Flickr account at the bottom (I will update that soon too).

ELECTRICITY- I was sitting in my room reading the other day, and all of a sudden the house goes completely dark. At first, I thought that it was a problem that all of C

ato manor had….just like the water before. The house next door, however, was blazing with light. As it turns out, my family forgot to add more time to the pre-paid electricity. It was quite interesting. There was a little machine in the kitchen that regulated the electricity. As opposed to paying a monthly bill, my family would purchase electricity time (just like you would purchase pre-paid internet or phone minutes). My sister quickly ran, grabbed the receipt and struggled to input the pin number that would allow us to get more electricity. After a few minutes, power was restored, but boy; it was a scare for me. I don’t know what I would have done without power.

SCHOOLS: Last week began our excursions into the Durban community. I, along with a few of my peers, was sent to Claireview Primary School to be introduced to South African education. I had not seen anything like it before. As we got there students were walking from all over in their black and white uniforms. What caught my attention most was how well mannered and behaved the children were. The teachers did a very good job of teaching them how to greet (as we walked into each classroom, the multitude said in unison “Good morning ma’am’s and sir-as I was the only male in the group). What was more interesting was the sheer magnitude of students in each room. We visited two classrooms- first a grade 7 class, which had about 60 students. Can you imagine (60 students in one class?). That wasn’t the worst of it though. We visited a grade 2 classroom with approximately 55 students. Now imagine…55 6-8 year olds in one room for the entire day…it can get a little hectic, es

pecially with one teacher. It was obvious she was frustrated…some students understood the lesson of subtraction, others were not. Some kids were hitting each other, while others sat quietly while the teacher made her rounds. It was absolutely amazing—the classroom dynamic. What’s more, the primary school was known for its ability to deal with refugees and immigrants from war-torn parts of Africa, therefore students in classrooms often did not have English as their first language, which makes things even more difficult.

MONKEY’S- We travelled to Warner Beach, not far outside of Durban for a weekend out. The beach itself was an experience (and I have a lot of beautiful pictures to prove it). I have been talking about how I wanted to see a monkey (I’ve heard stories of them stopping by the classroom), but up until this point, I had not seen one monkey. As we were preparing to leave, my friend called me outside of our hostel to see a monkey…but I missed it as it ran away. I returned to the house to work on my laptop. When I got up to take my things back to the room, I looked into the kitchen and saw a monkey walking on all fours across the counter. Fear shot through my chest and I ran into the room yelling “there is a monkey in the kitchen!” One of my friends went to go investigate the claim, but she came back empty handed. Again I went outside to check for the monkey, and what

do I see? Lo and behold, the monkey is hanging on the bars which covered the windows looking outside! I again ran into the room and told my friends. Another came out and began to look for the monkey, but she could not find it. Our visitor never appeared again, yet no one believes a monkey was ever there. I guess we will never know for sure...but I know what I saw!

WORLD EVENTS: I don’t know how much news is reaching the states, but it seems like every day I am hearing about some protests, riots, or civil unrest in countries around the world. First we heard about Egypt, then Sudan, Then Yemen and other Middle Eastern countries, and now Libya is following suit. Even here in South Africa, protests are a daily occurrence, as people demand better pay and better treatment. I also meant to talk about Nelson Mandela’s hospit

al stay. He is in his nineties now, and he was in the hospital for a short while, but people made it seem like he was dying…there’s just so much going on in and around Africa. It is a time of intense struggle and change.

RACISM: As I said earlier, a few of my friends and I travelled to Warner Beach to escape the city for a weekend. What we found was so unlike what we have seen thus far… it was a small town full of Afrikaners. For t

hose who don’t know, Afrikaners are the whites descended from Dutch settlers who came in the ea

rly 1600’s to South Africa. I, as a black student, felt the racial tensions which were residu

al from Apartheid. I went to one take out counter with my friend, and as we were standing there, we were not greeted. A guy (white) came in after us, and he was immediately greeted and served. As there were only two menus on the counter and both were taken by us, the lady went to my frien

d, took her menu and gave it to the white guy… all while my friend was still trying to figure out what to get. The man made his decision and ordered

before us... even though he came in AFTER! That just goes to show you, apartheid is still relatively recent, and those sentiments still reside with some people. Until this point in my experience, I had never dealt with racism in South Africa…but now I see, it is still alive and well, just as it is in the states.

WATER: on a rather quick note, the township where I am staying water was cut off, yet again (for the second time since we have been here). That has not happened before in the history of Cato Manor. What’s more people were not informed that water would be ceased, and therefore were unable to prepare for the shortage. We spent more than 24 hours without water, without anything to drink, without any way to bathe, and without any way to use the indoor plumbing. I have never before treasured water so much when we got it back earlier today. It is absolutely amazing to me…my mama told me that they shut the water off, at times when most people are coming home from work, and getting ready to cook. They shut the water off without notifying people, and worst yet, the water can stay off for DAYS at a time. The water truck was supposed to come and deliver water (most often contaminated), but it never came until after I left for school. I believe this is one of the experiences that will change my life forever. Never again will I take water for granted...because you never know when you might loose it!

Those are all of my updates for now. I apologize for the length

- Until next time!

New Experiences every day

2/13/11

Sawubonani!

Here is another update about my adventures in Durban, South Africa. On Friday my friend Esther and I made dinner for our families. Our mamas are twin sisters who live right next to each other. Therefore we decided to combine forces and fix a big dinner for the two households. It was my first time ever making a meal by myself.without my mom/dad/grandma telling me what to do. Anyway, we came out successful! I fried chicken which turned out to be excellent (I didn’t know I had it in me). We used Paula Dean’s recipe, and our families really enjoyed it Esther made creamed spinach and sugar cookies, and we both pitched in to make two huge pans of macaroni and cheese. Now I know I can definitely cook from scratch. I hope to exercise my new-found skill once I get back to the states….especially now that I know how to fry chicken! I’ll be set once I go back to school!

This weekend, my friends and I have been doing a lot of hanging out around the township getting to know some of the local people...and boy do we have interesting stories to tell! Friday night I was having a coule of toots at Charlie’s corner (the butchery which turns into a shabine at night). We were hanging around after a cookout that one of the mamas had for us. Unbeknowst to us, two Hispanic guys drove past us in a truck yelling something which we couldn’t understand. They drove around and came right back, and we had a lively discussion. The guys wer both from Peru, and we asked—Why are you in Africa? I don’t think I got an answer to that question, but it was fun nonetheless. My Spanish skills got a little workout when speaking to them..they were a very lively bunch.

Saturday night, I was hanging out with my SIT friends again… this time, we were at a house party. As I was walking back home with some of my friends, lo and behold do I see my homestay brother outside in the street, hanging out with Esther’s brother (I guess they are both related). Mind you, I haven’t spoken a complete sentence to my homestay brother..he’s very quiet and reserved, and most of the times, he is working until very late at night doing the sort of job that my dad does. I had a pretty fun time with them….even though they were a bit drunk. Esther’s brother was carrying a 6 pack of bottled Heineken and offered me a bottle. I asked how to open the cap…a bottle opener maybe? I was then instructed to use my teeth! I tried but failed to get the cap off. But then Esther’s brother opened the bottle. I just could not believe that they used their teeth to open the bottles! That can’t be good for their dental health, but then again, that isn’t a priority here when you don’t even know what you will have for your next meal.

Today I went to Zulu Church with Esther, her little brother (bhuthi omcnandi), and her mother. She was quite happy to show us off to the rest of the congregation. It was quite an interesting experience. The service itself wasn’t too entirely different from church back home. It was an interesting experience to look, and not wholly understand what was going on. At some points, we were to shake our neighbor’s hand and say something, but I always missed those ques. Children freely walked in and out of the open building, playing outside, then coming to sit in the back in child-size plastic chairs. We sat in larger lawn chairs, and welcomed the large fan that was blowing behind us. At most there were approximately 50 people there. The service was very lively, and one woman kept fainting. Overall though, it was a great experience. They translated the sermon to English, which was an added bonus for us.

I think that is about all for right now, I have to go and get ready for school tomorrow, and it is getting dark out. Another of our local friends is having a party tonight…which I might get dragged out to by my friends.. we shall see though.

Anyway, HAPPY VALENTINES DAY!

P.s. I've had some interesting inquiries about my race while I have been here. My mama asked me if my grandma was white, and said that my hair is very soft. One guy told me I would be classifed as "colored" because my hair is too straight. The other day, I was riding in a minbus taxi, and a guy asked me if I was "indian or colored" (colored refering to those of mixed race). I told him I was black, and he looked quite confused....

hmm. It's all very interesting

Irony of all Ironies

So, the whole point of this program is to get the "authentic experience." That is why we stay in a township, as opposed to a hotel, or a dorm room. How can you truly understand the health issues and problems of South Africans, particularly those in poverty, if you don't have any personal, or primary understanding of that lived experience?

I sat with my mama yesterday to watch the State of the Nation address by Jacob Zuma (South Africa's president). While watching, we couldn't help but discuss pertinent issues. One of those issues was the mater (amanzi). I came home yesterday, and she sadly informed me that the water has been shut off. Why? I asked. "I don't know" she told me. "Sometimes they just forget about us here. They don't notify us." I was utterly amazed. They didn't notify the families that the water would be shut off. Moreover, the water was shut off in the evening (after 5). That is when almost everyone returns from work to come home, eat, and sleep. Now, int he United States, that would not have happened. If water was to be shut off for any reason, neighbors of a particular community would be notified, and the water would be shut off during the day--a prime time, when almost everyone is out and about during their daily activities. This water stoppage absolutely shocked me. What if you needed to drink water to stay hydrated? (it was quite warm yesterday). What if you needed to take a shower or brush your teeth? We couldn't even use the toilet because there was no water to flush with. Perhaps the most amazing thing, is that it did not shock anyone, or cause any havoc. I could hear people chatting about amanzi, but it seemed as if this happens often. In fact it does. My homestay mother told me it happened once or twice every year!

The water returned this morning, but now it isn't flowing properly. The faucets "cough" in a way, producing an uneven flow of water... I hope things get better by the time I return home in the evening.

on a different cultural note, I found out that Jacob Zuma has multiple wives. Polygyny (multiple wives) is an accepted phenomenon in zulu culture, particularly if you can pay libolo for all of your wives (a dowry). My mother explained it to me that its better when a man has multiple wives because you know who he's sleeping with, as opposed to "girl hunting." And it shows a man's wealth.. I though tthat waas pretty interesting.

Well, that's all for right now!

Food and Horns

Sawubonani! Ninjani? (Hello! How are you?)

I have had some new cultural experiences today that I would like to share on my blog. First off, I have been initiated into the amazi club. Amazi is a South African dish made of sour milk, plain yogurt, cream, and putu which is a grain (also called mealy-meal it is the staple of poor people…a necessity. If you cannot afford mealy-meal it is given to you by the government). This is all combined together to form a dish. When I came home, I thought I smelled food being cooked... I guess I was wrong. My mama told me I would be eating something “very different” for dinner today. Amazi has a reputation in our program, because many of the homestay families love it… it is a nice break from cooking, a nice break from hot food (particularly in hot weather), and a break from all of the spices. The dish, however, does not sit well on the American stomach. Some of my colleagues were introduced to the dish earlier in the homestay, and I felt lucky I wasn’t in the number...but I got it today! I tried it...as I am open to trying new thigns. It wasn’t unbearable, but I am not used to consuming sour milk. I think I might be a tad lactose intolerant anyway, so I try to stay away from milk as much as possible…but having a dish filled with sour milk didn’t appease my taste buds, or my stomach. I had to take an antacid tablet just now to try and calm my stomach from the flips it has been doing. Luckily my homestay family noticed my lack of enthusiasm for the dish, and allowed me to make a peanut butter and jelly sandwich. I felt really awful about the whole situation! Mama’s like when guests clean their plates…and I usually do… but this time, I barely touched my meal. Anyway, here’s to new cultural experiences!

I began to watch my first soccer game on television tonight, although I had to retire to my room, because it is already past my 9:30 bedtime (I have to wake up at 5 am tomorrow). Before I retired to my room, however, I learned that South Africans really love their soccer. Moreover, every time RSA scored, you would hear the vuvuzelas (the horns) blowing… not only on the television, but in around the township as well. Hopefully we will go to a soccer game sometime soon, and maybe I will purchase a few of them to bring back.

Lastly the violence here is awful, and it struck close to home a few days ago. A grandson a few houses down have begun to take an up-and-coming drug called wonga which is made of HIV antiretroviral pills, rat poison and methanphetamines. The boy stabbed his grandmother several times because he got into an argument with her. As the gogo or grandmother was bleeding, and ambulance was called... but it did not arrive for 4 HOURS! By the time it arrived someone took the gogo to nearby Westville Hospital (in the rich suburbs where the megamall Pavilion is located). The gogo tried to get treatment there, but she was informed she had to pay R10, 000 upfront before she could be treated. Imagine, bleeding all over your body from stab wounds, and a hospital is refusing to treat you because you cannot pay upfront. The gogo was then transported to another public hospital, King Edward. Although she had to wait in a long line there, at least the services were free. These are the issues of the current South African medical system.

It’s a travesty.

I once was lost.....

2/7/11

Sawubona! Unjani? (Hello! How are you?

Well, I have not updated my blog for a while now. I am long overdue for another entry. Things have just been so hectic here over the last week or so that I haven’t had adequate time to sit down and process my experiences, for the world to read. As you can see below, I have begun to upload some pictures of my stay here in South Africa! Do not be alarmed by the bar and lounge photos…I’m not there every day, and those are not representative of my entire stay here. Those pictures are the most recent ones from last weekend when the program had a few days on the town, away from our homestay families. We stayed in a backpacker (hostel) called Tekweni (based on the Zulu name for Durban eThekwini). The lodge had quite a hippie/liberal/carefree college student type atmosphere. It almost felt like college on the beach. My friends and I frequented Cubana, a bar and lounge….it was very nice, inexpensive according to American standards, and it had everything: good food, drinks, and hookah! It was a nice get-a-way considering I have been struggling to get the things that I am used to back home: air conditioning, a hot shower, a table to put my food on, mirrors (so I can shave), ice cubes, and oh yeah, can I say AIR CONDITIONING?

It is incredibly hot here, although I have experienced worse. St. Louis gets pretty hot in the summer, but here it is a different type of hot (I like to call it Africa hot!) I think it is the proximity to the South Pole that is probably making it hot (I’m just postulating, I am not sure) last night though, I could barely sleep. I was lying on the bed (not even in the sheets!) In my boxers completely drenched. I could not find a comfortable position to sleep, and at one point between full consciousness and sleep, I had a semi-dream semi-hallucination. Crazy right?! Wherever I go, there is ABSOLUTELY no A/C (i.e. my homestay house, and the house where we have our classes). Anyway, those are my complaints thus far. It’s just something I have to get used to. Although, I don’t think I will ever come to terms with the lack of trashcans and napkins…..their absence has really made me realize how reliant I was on them…

Back to my weekend travels. We stayed in town, and my friend Esther and I decided to get lost on our way to Victoria Market. Okay…we didn’t intend on getting lost... it just happened, but it was one of the best experiences I had thus far. We first rode a minibus taxi to the Workshop, a shopping center right next to City Hall. There we ate a little Indian place, which has good, cheap food. We then successfully found our way to the Market on the People Mover (We were informed that the People Mover busses were meant for tourists only, not locals... so many locals don’t even know what the bus is for). We made our way to the Market and walked around the block. This is when I felt like I was really in an African urban center. Let me see if I can paint a picture of what I experienced. Let’s start with the smell. Think body odor in heat, add the smell of curry and other spices, ripening fruit from stands, and grills going cooking meat on the side of the street for people to buy. Now imagine the sounds… taxi’s beeping every five seconds to attract potential clients, the sounds of Zulu, Xhosa, and Sutu all with their numerous clicks ricocheting off of one’s ears. Along with that is the continuous soundtrack of African drums, techno, and American pop and traditional African music from multiple radios. Now imagine being on a crowded sidewalk. Established stores on one side, while on the other are street vendors. There are ladies walking around balancing tremendous loads on their heads, and men are handing out pamphlets for Zulu traditional healers. I hope that gives you some Idea of what we experienced. There I found gifts that I will probably take home. I bought a little music maker for 60 rand (about 8 USD). That seemed pretty cheap, but as I was leaving, the shopkeeper was speaking to another, and they both laughed at me…I think I w supposed to haggle the price…eh, either way, I got a deal.

After we left Victoria Market, we walked in the outside spice market a bit more (we saw more traditional healing and hanging chicken carcasses, to name a few of the sights). After looking at how the poor population of RSA lived, we were to meet our friends at gateway Mall, the biggest mall in South Africa. We had a time though! We wanted to find a minibus taxi—they are cheap (4-6 Rand). The only downfall of those taxis is that they drive CRAZY and motor vehicle fatalities are the number 3 cause of death in the country. We spent two hours in the hot sun, walking from taxi bay to taxi bay asking the drivers if they go to Gateway. If they didn’t understand English or our heavily accented Zulu, they pointed us in a different direction, which got us further lost! We found a taxi later in Warwick Junction…a place we were warned NEVER to go because it was so dangerous… needless to say we made it to the mall safely. The mall was incredible and huge! Even bigger than the Pavilion (which if you recall, is bigger than any mall I have seen back home). It was so interesting to go from Victoria Market, where people are there trying to make a few rand a day…to Gateway Mall, the epitome of opulence. That just goes to show, how alarming, how steep the disparities are between the haves and the have-nots.

When I got back to my homestay, my Mama commented “: Ezelle, you lost weight this weekend!” Zulu mama’s are sticklers about their kids… they want them to be FAT, and apparently I wasn’t fat enough anymore. She has given me even bigger helpings of food to put some weight back on my bones.

Well anyway, I think those are all the adventures I will share at the moment. If anything else happens, I will be sure to let you all know. In the meantime, I have bunches of work to take care of!

- Until Next Time!